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Archive for February 2024

Aficionados are well-aware that Cantharellus cibarius, known in French as girolle or Chanterelle commune, is a species of basidiomycete fungi belonging to the Cantharellaceae family. This mushroom, widespread across the Northern Hemisphere, is esteemed for its culinary excellence, ranking among the most renowned and sought-after in its category.

By analogy, the same can be said for the French "bring your own wine" restaurant La Girolle, nestled in Quebec's Saint-Sacrement neighborhood, which has been a well-known and sought-after destination for 23 years. Owned by Chef David Grenier (photo) since 2018, the establishment has preserved the spirit and values of its founders while naturally evolving its menu over the years and seasons.

La Girolle

Let's highlight some of the famous dishes available. Starters include: Deluxe Charcuterie Plate, Escargot Pastry in Cheese Sauce, Flavors of L'ile d'Orléans, Bison Carpaccio with Truffle Emulsion. Main courses particularly appreciated are: Scallop and Shrimp Risotto, Grilled Lamb Loin with Spanish Sauce, Duck Breast with Port and Serviceberry, Braised Sweetbreads à la Forestière, Land and Sea / Black Pudding with Spices, Deer in Mushroom Crust with Périgord Sauce, Salmon Pavé with Mango Salsa, Chef's Style Beef Fillet Mignon, Pork Tenderloin with Cheddar Fondue and Balsamic.

La Girolle La Girolle

Grenier, before acquiring the restaurant, had been actively involved in various kitchen roles, from dishwasher to cook, starting at the age of 18. Despite not attending prestigious culinary schools or holding renowned degrees in hospitality, his merit includes stints at famed establishments during travels in Australia and around the world, where he honed and developed his culinary skills.

Alongside the previous owners of La Girolle, he has cultivated the art of dining based on dishes that continue to contribute to the place's fame and draw a loyal clientele, in addition to developing an entirely new menu. Since Grenier took over, there have been no major changes to the venue: the carpet was removed, and some minor renovations were made. His motivation lies in maintaining consistent quality in the cuisine, always in line with market availability and seasonally affordable products.

La Girolle 

In addition to the regular menu displayed on large wheeled blackboards, which changes with the seasons, one can always order frozen dishes for takeout, offering meals distinct from the regular menu and complementing the dining room offerings. This product, even post the 2000-2001 pandemic, continues to enjoy success. They also offer various takeout and reheat dishes (soups, salads, charcuteries, sweetbreads, black pudding, pork tenderloin, for example).

La Girolle

Indeed, La Girolle remains one of the rare "bring your own wine" (or beer) restaurants in Quebec City, a concept David Grenier assures will not change. This format is highly appreciated six evenings and three afternoons each week, from August to June. Its location outside tourist districts allows a month-long July vacation for the team of approximately 25 employees.

La Girolle

La Girolle can accommodate up to 140 guests in the evening, from Tuesday to Sunday, with 106 seats spread across two distinct sections. Reservations are recommended, especially from Friday to Sunday. Workers and residents of the neighborhood frequent it for lunch from Wednesday to Friday.

For history enthusiasts, the establishment Les Prés had been located here since 1990. La Girolle has been operating at this address since 2000.

La Girolle

Restaurant La Girolle
lagirolle.ca
1384, Chemin Sainte-Foy
Québec, QC, G1S 2N6
(418) 527-4141

Serge Bruyère

A native of Lyon in France, Serge Bruyère fell in love with the city of Québec from his very first visit in 1976. He immigrated to its province during the Montréal Olympic Games, working at the Queen Elizabeth Hotel before moving to Québec city. Prior to leaving his native country, he had undergone his training in the kitchens of l’Auberge du Tunnel in Auvergne with Paul Bocuse and the Troisgros brothers. He first worked at the Hilton before becoming executive chef at the Éperlan restaurant. One year later, he founded the Marie-Clarisse restaurant near the Breakneck Stairs (l’Escalier Casse-cou) with another partner. In 1980, he undertook a new adventure at the Maison Livernois on Saint-Jean Street, this time on his own: Serge Bruyère’s restaurant À La Table was created. He was among the very first chefs to work closely with local craftsmen in order to obtain high quality products for his menu. Serge Bruyère died prematurely in 1994 at the age of 33. His heritage is considered enormous: he introduced an updated version of haute cuisine, laying the foundations of a gastronomy concerned with great quality and based on a relationship of proximity with his suppliers. Throughout the 14 years of existence of À La Table, Bruyère devoted time and energy in training dozens of competent chefs like Daniel Vézina, Jean Soulard and Marie-Chantale Lepage, who to this day remain inspired by his culinary philosophy.

His passion for gastronomy as well as his devotion to the recognition of the trade were immense. He knew how to transmit his enthusiasm and the importance of working with precision, and also to respect clients and producers. Bruyère is one of only two Québec chefs to be included in the Larousse gastronomique lexicon, and was the first to introduce new cuisine to the city.

He was a humble, sympathetic and respected chef. His passion for quality produce and his unfailing technique and hard work, along with the sharing of his knowledge were of utmost importance to him. The Fondation Serge Bruyère, which is dedicated to the encouragement of Québec’s new culinary talent, serves to perpetuate his legacy.

The Massimadi Festival, special edition, celebrates Black History Month from February 15 to 18, 2024, at the McCord Museum Stewart with the theme of Transcendence. This cinematic celebration presents a variety of films, including the opening documentary, Disruptor Conductor (2019), offering a captivating insight into the life of Afro-Canadian conductor Daniel Bartholomew-Poyser. Among the noteworthy artworks, Who I am Not (2023) by Tunde Skovran emotionally explores the intersex experience, while All the Colours of the World Are Between Black and White (2023) by Babatunde Apalolo addresses the challenges of LGBTQ+ relationships in a society where homosexuality remains taboo. RAIZES (2023) by Céline RUFFIN-BAYARDIN delves into the universe of the lesbian-trans-activist batucada Raízes Arrechas in Paris. Each screening will be followed by discussion circles or Q&A sessions, allowing direct exchanges between the audience and the artists. On February 17, seize the unique opportunity to witness the first performance of Afro-Canadian conductor Daniel Bartholomew-Poyser in Montreal, in collaboration with the Obiora Ensemble. This special edition promises a transcendent experience, celebrating the diversity and resilience of Black LGBTQ+ communities.

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